Aline Neuville’s studio, Lisbon
19th century (end) or 20th century (early)
Velvet; silk threads; lace; sequins; tulle; silk crepe; silk satin
Composed of a skirt and bodice, in black velvet, it is profusely decorated with floral motives, using lace, tulle, sequins and several embroidery stitches.
The skirt has fringes starting from the waist, at the back, which continue into a marked train. The cut-out decorative motifs are highlighted by the light colour of the inner satin.
The bodice is largely covered in lace. It closes at the front and is finished at the neck by a small pearl-coloured crepe frill. The half sleeves may be converted into long sleeves by bringing the two features together through clasps hidden by lace.
The use of different materials and textures create sumptuous gradations of colour and shimmer: it is certainly a ceremonial garment. Given the time when it was made, we can imagine that it was worn by its owner, Sofia Cândida Rooke at official receptions in the then Royal Palace of Porto, where the Soares dos Reis National Museum is today.
It was made by the Aline Neuville studio, one of whose clients was Queen Maria Pia.